You've been there before. You buy a holster at a great price only to realize that you got what you paid for. The thing is impossible to mount and unmount to your pants, and re-holstering is out of the question. The holster gets chucked and you buy something else 3-4 times the cost.
We've already covered this in the first blog post to the Making It Work series, but you can adapt and apply a bit of finesse to make the holster work for you. Something to note: our family will always recommend buying higher quality holsters with features to meet your needs- never settle! However, this post is made for those who want their current holster to work, despite its shortcomings. The shortcoming we will focus on here is re-holstering when a holster that has lots of flex and bend to it.
Robert Farago wrote a great piece on when to re-holster your weapon. We'd like to offer the how. We recommend understanding the when before you move on to the how that will be offered below.
As an example, we will be using one of our Nylon IWB holsters. - specifically the CT3A Nylon IWB for the M&P Shield. These holsters are made for maximum comfort, convenience, and concealment. This unfortunately comes at the cost of little rigidity in the holster and becomes difficult to re-holster one handed.
Once the pistol is drawn, the holster will collapse under your waistband. It's not difficult to see that re-holstering in this state will be challenging!
Our suggestion? Instead of fishing and digging for the holster (yikes!), unmount the holster itself and bring it up to your weapon. Again, this is assuming that the proper time has come and all threats are neutralized. Try several dry runs at home and develop a fluid technique that works best for you.
This brings us to our bonus tip: If your new holster is difficult to put onto your waistband, try safely inserting your pistol first. The gun will provide the much need rigidity to make mounting easier.